A Brief History of Jojos, Which Are from the Pacific Northwest and Not the Midwest, Okay?! – Slog
Mmmmmh. Fried. YOURS SINCERELY
After I was in highschool, after class we went to that darkish, dusty mini market subsequent door that had creepy issues like an entire hen in a can and a deep fryer with yo-yos too. They value about 50 cents a pound in 1994, and as a teen you’ll be able to inhale them endlessly with out a single synapse firing in between, which we did. Get a 2 pound bag and begin cramming. Steamed potato fills your sinuses. This place hasn’t been round for a very long time, however it had the most effective yo-yos I’ve ever eaten.
Should you’re new or one thing, yo-yos are these little tater wedges which can be breaded, dusted with lawrys, and never fried, however stress fried. The within is gentle and fluffy like a baked potato; the surface is crispy and evenly caramelized, with these thick, knurled ends. They’re orange. Potato greater than French fries. They don’t seem to be “hand-crafted fries” or “breakfast potatoes” and it’s essential to not prepare dinner them in a pan – that’s one thing else. Often they’re cooked in the identical oil as fried hen and are basically chicken-like themselves. Principally, yo-yos are fried chickens’ little sister, who share their DNA and take part each time they’ll.
You may get them in a grocery store or mini market, ideally at a fuel station, out of a foggy cellophane bag. Or in truck stops and relaxation stops, perhaps in a hut on a rustic highway with an indication that claims “Braast”. Listed here are your yo-yos.
Just lately somebody tried to inform me that a number of locations within the Midwest assume they’re the birthplace of Jojos and I bought it that they’re a Northwestern factor. So I examine it.
Let’s begin the place yo-yos did it: with fast fryers.
Stress fryers, initially designed for cooking meat, use screaming sizzling oil and a stress of 5-15 kilos PSI to crisp the surface of issues whereas locking their juiciness inside. Impressed by stress cookers that use water, not oil, “Colonel” Harland Sanders first experimented within the Forties with turning them into deep fryers – a particularly harmful, ill-considered artwork that generally concerned 375-degree oil explosions. It went effectively for Sanders, nevertheless; In the long run, he had a quicker prepare dinner time for his fried hen and a way more scrumptious product.
Over a decade later, within the mid-Nineteen Fifties, the Broaster Firm of Beloit, Wisconsin started promoting high-speed fryers. Ohio-based manufacturing firm Henny Penny was the primary to patent it for business use in 1957. So the short fryers themselves are a Midwestern creation. For certain.
Nevertheless. It is a Vancouver, Washington-based salesman named Nick Nicewonger (oh my god) who’s believed to be the daddy of the yo-yo. In 1958, Nicewonger was distributing stress fryers within the northwest for a producer referred to as Taste-Crisp, and that yr it was displayed at a restaurant present subsequent to a sales space owned by Idaho potato sellers. It writes to itself: By throwing wedges of potato within the oil, he found an affordable and fast option to reveal his fancy space-age fryer – and a helpful one too. “A potato cleans the oil rather well,” mentioned Nicewonger’s son Paul in 2017 at Willamette Week.
These check wedges have been initially thrown away. However sooner or later somebody was like hey, that smells like meals, and Nicewonger put them on trays for friends to strive. When he was pressured (heh) to call her, he blurted out “Jojos” and a star was born. This occurred someplace within the PNW, most likely within the better Portland space, which Nicewonger was centered on.
The Midwest, in the meantime, is making an attempt to maneuver ahead. A man in Omaha referred to as “the oral historian of yo-yo” tells an equivalent story to Nicewonger’s besides that there are a number of distributors, they’re anonymous, they’re in Chicago, and it takes place in “1962 or 1963” a number of years in accordance with Nicewonger’s account. Sooner or later, ’62 or ’63 turns into ’61.
Sounds fuzzy, man. I selfishly favor to consider Nicewonger Junior who has a couple of extra particulars and sticks to his info.
In a depressing world of chia pudding and health water, it’s changing into more and more tough to search out yo-yos with the appropriate fats content material. The Shell stations on Beacon Avenue and Corson Avenue clearly have them. Hop-In Grocery in Renton, Fast Pack Meals Mart within the Central District, and Seward Park Grocery in Rainier even have killer yo-yos. Fast Pack, well-known for its hen, makes use of russets, so the yo-yos are further lengthy and chunky, extra like a jacket spud. They need sizzling sauce to interrupt up the large, lovely clouds of potatoes.

Roast hen, further lengthy Biggie yo-yos and sizzling sauce within the Fast Pack Meals Mart. YOURS SINCERELY
Together with the (briefly closed) Duck Island Ale Home in Greenlake, the Marco Polo Bar and Grill in Georgetown and the Monte Carlo Pub in Kent are additionally roadhouses with actually greasy, crispy yo-yos. Heaven, the hen and the duck’s yo-yos have been simply superior. Please open once more quickly, Duckie.
Anyway, thanks Mister Nicewonger for staying someplace within the northwest once you determined to let individuals eat your demo junk so Seattle can profit from native credit score. And for not having to call them after you, in order that I haven’t got to say “nicer” to strangers at fuel stations. Properly accomplished. These items are nice.
Some locations to search out yo-yos:
Hop into groceries and deli
5325 NE 4th St Renton, WA 98059
Fast Pack Meals Mart
2616 S Jackson Road, Seattle, WA
Marco Polo Bar & Grill
5613 4th Avenue S, Seattle, WA
Monte Carlo Pub
1617 W Meeker St, Kent, WA
Duck Island Ale Home (Quickly Closed)
7317 Aurora Avenue North, Seattle, WA
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